Dining Out

Higgins Restaurant, Portland, Oregon

PORTLAND—Once in a blue moon, a wild Oregon salmon would show up—neatly cleaned and wrapped in a grocery bag--on my Portland doorstep. Usually caught the day before by my father-in-law, I'd look at the monstrous beast, sigh, and wonder what the heck to do with the thing. After slicing out the biggest steaks and making a few salmon croquettes, we'd inevitably have to throw out the rest. Shudder. I now have to offer up my firstborn, along with three forms of collateral to even look at that kind of salmon at the grocery store.

My former hometown, Portland, is a city of amazing bounty. Small truck farms still dot the suburbs; fresh seafood abounds from rivers and the nearby ocean; apples and hazelnuts are picked by the ton; and creative bakers and chefs (unlike me) throughout the area have learned to take advantage of the freshest, most seasonal foods to create an unparalleled northwest regional cuisine.

At the forefront is Chef Greg Higgins, running his namesake downtown restaurant, Higgins. With a special affinity for local specialties like salmon, duck, mushrooms and the other regional produce, his cuisine is deeply rooted in the nearby fields, farms and streams. Suffice to say, if you want to taste Oregon, Higgins is the place.

The menu changes with the seasons, as well as with Higgins' whims. So if you have your heart set on a particular dish, be prepared to adapt. For example, during the winter months, Higgins' ever-changing menu might include parsnips, duck, pan-seared Oregon tuna, smoked charcouterie, clams and all manner of root vegetables. As the weather warms, the menu changes as well, offering up just-picked greens, lamb and asparagus: a sort of guide to what local farmers are bringing to the markets each month.

But while a nice farm fresh parsnip is, well, nice, it isn't cuisine. What makes simple products sing are Higgins' delicate hand with cooking styles (often grilled or slow cooked to intensify flavors) and clever pairings: like mixing citrus chutney, baby turnips and polenta with a confit of duck breast; or a delicate triangle of gnocchi with coppacola (an Italian ham similar to pancetta) with grassy green olive oil.

If you go: The front dining room at Higgins is often crowded with eager diners. Elegant, yet simple, it’s a wonderful white-tablecloth experience and great for romance. Casual diners, however, gravitate toward the backroom pub where clubby wood tables offer a more informal, native experience. You can often find nearby staffers from the Oregonian and prestigious downtown law firms grabbing a pint and nibbling on appetizers after hours.

Wines by the glass are limited, but Higgins has a solid by-the-bottle list that includes many local, though somewhat expensive, Pinots. In the back pub beer rules supreme, with an impressive selection of local microbrews and international pours.

Take the time to ask servers what's best: they tend to be honest about a slightly dry dessert or a mis-fire on the menu. The duck (in one form or another) is a perennial favorite, as are most local fishes (salmon, tuna). Starters with a special focus like a mushroom and leek strudel are standouts. Dessert sometimes falls a bit short, but a recent caramelized pear tart was incredible. The only word of caution: eating in the bar area can be a bit noisy, and eating at the bar itself can be an exercise in frustration when seeking the daily specials (though the bartender can speak eloquently about the beers on tap).

Kids: Higgins menu isn't especially child-friendly, though the simplified bar menu includes sandwiches and a burger. If you're toting tots, you'll be most comfortable in the back pub, though certain restrictions apply to bringing children into the bar during certain hours. Call ahead for details.

Romance Factor: The front room isn't especially intimate, but a treat for an anniversary or to impress a third or fourth-time date.

Higgins Restaurant, 1239 SW Broadway, Portland, OR

Hours: Mon-Fri 11:30am-12:00am; Sat 4:00pm- 2:30am; Sun 4:00pm-12:00am
Tel: (503) 222-9070

Reservations Recommended